Entremés - appetizer These are the notes from a country where I am • measuring distances in dollar • wearing a monokini • selling tortillas for 25 cent apiece • listening to and write down lifetime confessions • drinking tiger milk • losing a rubber boot in the mud • getting to know Nelson, Nixon, Kelvin and Chávez face-to-face • not willing to eat black bananas • sleeping in one bed with Don Victor • almost becoming a shaman • treating broken bones with frozen meat • hunting cockroaches in refrigerators without success • learning 1018 words of Quichua within two days • preaching not very catholic sermons • dancing sitting with three female cacao farmers • eating coffee • swimming mother-naked in TV • swiping a clay pot • running away from crazy cows • always taking off one shoe in Internet cafes • almost fainting when trying to pay an electricity bill • eating lawyers while I am pregnant • being bitten by tarts • correcting love declarations on computers • negotiating with sleeping cacao farmers • experiencing one hand the grief of refugees and the left behind • running after an in-soaped dog • fighting against fleas under scratchy blankets in the sauna • having a bitter aftertaste of cacao and where I am called Gringa loca (crazy white woman)